Gay Jamaica in one week: Montego Bay, pristine beaches, Gay Kingston, and much more

There’s no sugar-coating Jamaica’s history of homophobia and continued LGBTQ discrimination. Members of the gay community remain victims of oppression under a Colonial-era Penal Code criminalizing same-sex relations, called ‘buggery laws.’ While a rise in Jamaican activists and increasing visibility is challenging these persecutory laws, censorship against LGBTIQ rights and disparaging inequality and harassment towards the gay in Jamaica remain.

That said, gay travellers to Jamaica are less likely to face discrimination so long as they stay around well-trodden tourist areas. The 2017 tourism minister even declared Jamaica a country for all tourists, regardless of sexual orientation. To be safe, exercise discretion in public and avoid displays of affection. When it comes to booking accommodation in Jamaica, most all-inclusive resorts and mid to high-range hotels welcome same-sex couples.

While jerk chicken is arguably the most famed of Jamaican dishes, there’s more to the island’s cuisine than its drool-worthy spice rubs alone. Influenced by both the Old and New worlds, many Jamaican dishes revolve around yams, rice, and plantains. Don’t miss saltfish and ackee, a hearty breakfast that doubles as Jamaica’s national dish. There are also heaps of fresh local fish and juicy tropical fruits to be had, best washed down with a swig of spicy, sweet rum. When it comes to hydrating, the tap water is safe, but it’s best still to stick with readily available filtered water.

Marijuana is synonymous with a Jamaica beach getaway for many. However, it’s only recently that the government decriminalized the possession of ganja, and there remain ongoing questions about the ramifications of tourists purchasing marijuana (specifically its effects on local crime.) Should you decide to imbibe, you’ll have no trouble finding ganja from beach hawkers or even roadside stands.

Travellers seeking out wildlife will find countless opportunities to explore the marine world in its natural habitat. Avoid captive animal centres, many of which have questionable practices.

Sandwiched between the Blue Mountains and the world’s seventh-largest natural harbour, Kingston is a fitting start to any gay Jamaica travel itinerary. A UNESCO Creative City of Music, Kingston is a cacophony of sights, sounds, and smells—at times overwhelming yet never uninteresting. The city consists of two halves. Uptown is a bevvy of towering skyscrapers, where you’ll find some of the city’s top hotels and restaurants. Downtown is bursting with historic buildings, bustling markets, and world-class museums. While the two aren’t always a seamless blend, together, they provide a beguiling portrait of modern Jamaica.

Some of the top things to do in Kingston include the Devon House, the former residence of Jamaica’s first black millionaire, and the Bob Marley Museum. From here, hop into any of Kingston’s contemporary art galleries for a guided tour of Jamaica’s kaleidoscopic art culture, or head straight to the open-air Kingston Craft Market to pick up a colourful souvenir. Whatever you do, don’t miss Port Royal; once the ‘wickedest city on Earth,’ the ancient Pirate capital of the Caribbean is now almost entirely underwater. From here, uninhabited Lime Cay is just two miles south, a worthwhile add-on.

Kingston is a cultural mecca, but that doesn’t mean it wants for natural marvels, too. On a clear day, Holywell Park is the spot for sweeping city views from Port Royal to Portmore. The 300-acre park lies at 3,200 feet above sea level, a wonderful escape from the perennial hustle and bustle below. Climb even higher with a trek to Blue Mountain Peak, Jamaica’s tallest point visible from virtually anywhere in Kingston. Back in the city, New Kingston is the spot for heady nightlife with some of the best reggae artists on the planet.

Beloved hippy haven of the early 1970s, Negril hasn’t lost its bohemian charm—even after some 40 years of development. Here, precipitous limestone cliffs give way to crystal-clear water. The jagged coastline is dotted with swanky boutique hotels, most with staggering ocean views from their treetop locales. Join the friendly locals as they daringly dive into the azure waters below or simply soak up the unquestionably cool vibes with a refreshing Red Stripe in hand.

The north part of Negril is graced with some of Jamaica’s best and longest beaches, including ever-popular Seven Mile Beach. There’s plenty of tasty local restaurants and buzzing beach bars when hunger strikes. For something a bit more secluded, Calico Jack Pirate Island is a rustic bar hidden away on a private island. A relative newcomer to Negril’s hip and happening scene, expect authentic Jamaican cuisine, unspoiled snorkelling, and zesty cocktails—all in a setting that pays homage to Jamaica’s fascinating pirate past.

Rounding out our gay Jamaica itinerary is Montego Bay, an enchanting Jamaica beach that is also home to one of the island’s most thrumming city centres—right behind Kingston for its unscripted depiction of modern Jamaica. Lovingly dubbed MoBay, the shiny Jamaica all-inclusive adults-only resorts lie far outside the gritty urban centre, with The Hip Strip (Gloucester Avenue) and its mid-range hotels falling somewhat in between the two.

Most of the best beaches in Montego Bay are private, which means you’ll pay for access. Doctor’s Cave Beach is one of the most sought-out for good reason. And if you’ve yet to leisurely float down a river on a bamboo raft, a quintessential thing to do in Jamaica, then Montego Bay is the spot to hop on and soak up the island’s serene inland countryside.

MoBay is a foodie’s delight, so finish up your Jamaica travel itinerary by eating your heart out. The Pelican Grill is a city landmark serving up bowls of steamy stewed oxtail and addicting deep-fried cassava flatbreads. For decadent cuisine coupled with big-time thrills, Pier 1 is a waterfront seafood restaurant that doubles as one of the city’s top dancing venues. Finally, if you’re in Jamaica with your special someone, Sugar Mill Restaurant is as romantic as it gets.