The spiritual power of Nepal: shrines and temples, trekking expeditions, incredible wildlife and, of course, gay Kathmandu

An ancient land of Buddhist values having recently shaken off the bounds of its monarchy, Nepal now stands as the most progressive nation in South Asia when it comes to LGBT rights. The Nepalese Constitution recognises these as fundamental human rights and protections have been introduced to safeguard against discrimination, in addition to giving LGBT people the right to self-identify and have safe access to public services. The culture of ‘hijra’ – the name given to gender non-conforming people – is long-established but gay marriage remains under consideration by the government.

In spite of its liberal side, Nepal is still defined by its traditions and there is social pressure among locals to follow hetero lifestyles, with discrimination facing those who don’t conform. As a result, gay Nepal is relatively reserved and the small gay scene that does exist is particularly vulnerable to harassment and scandal.

You may initially assume otherwise but Nepal goes beyond its trekking credentials and offers way, way more than stunning mountains ridges to clamber up. If Everest, Annapurna and Langtang don’t hold any attraction, Nepalese culture may also lure you, particularly to the famed city of Kathmandu, a place steeped in sacred and historic attractions within range of outlying adventures. Those coming for spiritual awakening can bed down in Buddhist temple retreats or remote mountain homestays or, otherwise, make base in the big cities before venturing out to wildlife sanctuaries such as the Chitwan National Park which combines both animals with immense forest wilderness. Pokhara is another popular area within reach of Kathmandu, a lakeside town with a number of connecting hiking routes. Though the 2015 earthquake severely impacted a number of historical treasures in Kathmandu, restoration is well underway, working to make the region once again safe and accessible to travellers.

Welcome to the beating heart of Nepal and the spiritual heart of South Asia, a blood-pumping affair of intoxicating spices and crazy traffic filling all routes in and out of Kathmandu old town where ancient legends wax lyrical and medieval temples loom. Though the central district of Thamel can take some getting used to, with its pushy touts and maddening chaos, settle in for the ride in order to uncover the city’s artistic heritage by way of wooden carved houses, metal sculpture and busty stupas heaving high above the skyline.

Based on what once was a mammoth lake covering the floor of the valley, Kathmandu has many more ancient secrets to tell. On UNESCO-listed Durbar Square lie the ruins of the old palace, with a number of handcrafted pagodas rippling out from there. Just a short distance away, find the Living Goddess’ residence parallel to the bohemian Freak Street, a once-famed tourist area now succeeded by Thamel, the main centre for backpacking in Nepal. For all your travel amenities, Thamel is the place, packed too with hotels of all budgets, live music bars, massage parlours, clubs and more. It’s here – all within one square kilometre – where you can also fill up on cuisine from any corner of the globe, before mapping your way to the nearby religious sites of Boudha, Pashupatinath and Swayambhu, weaving in and out of lively markets and the frequent ceremonial processions that take over the streets.

One of Nepal’s three ‘Royal Cities’, Bhaktapur is perhaps the most convenient, beside the capital in Kathmandu Valley, on an old trade route to Tibet. Bhaktapur differs slightly from the other two Royal Cities in that it is home to a primarily Hindu population, a fact reflected in the colourful cultural life surrounding the city’s major squares. Durbar Square (sharing its name with a palace in the capital) is Bhaktapur’s main offering though sadly hit hard by the 2015 earthquake. Despite reconstruction and repair causing a little disorder, this is still one of the best places to visit in Kathmandu with most of the temples remaining intact and much else to see. As well as fine temple architecture, roam the centre’s narrow alleyways to find courtyards filled with artisan craft workshops dealing in textiles, wood and clay, together with friendly locals who meet to bathe and socialise.

A scenic city on the lips of any serious hiker who travels to Nepal is the city of Pokhara. This tranquil hub lies in the foothills of some of the world’s grandest mountains and has become the gateway of choice for those trekking in the Himalayas towards the peaks of Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Annapurna. Though on paper Pokhara is Nepal’s second-largest city after Kathmandu, when you arrive you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find a slow-paced centre with clean air and nature all around. Whether coming from the capital city or returning from days of intense hiking, Pokhara’s lakeside is the ultimate place to dump your bags and breathe a sigh of relieve, revelling in the relaxing atmosphere and home comforts available. Wander along the lakefront, lined with hotels, restaurants and shops, enjoying a front-row view of snow-capped mountains from any angle. Stick around in Pokhara for a day or two to experience its best adventures; paragliding and white-water rafting being the two most popular activities, followed by the rather more docile Gurkha soldier museum.

Protecting an area of more than 932 square kilometres, spanning forest, marshland and grassland, the Chitwan National Park is a definite must-visit while in Nepal, even if only to glimpse its magnificent wildlife roam wild. As well as 500 species of bird, Chitwan residents include deers, monkeys, rhinos and even a few leopards, elephants and sloth bears. The rajah of the park however is the royal Bengal Tiger, which single-handedly (paw-edly?) draws visitors from across the globe. The elephants here are domesticated and although animal rights concerns now limit interactions, elephant treks and jungle tours are still offered (though frowned upon by many).

For a small admission fee or as part of a tour bundle, travel through Chitwan by safari, sloping upwards of 100 meters in an area of tropical climate unlike anywhere else in Nepal. As well as land critters, watch out along the rivers and streams to spot elusive dolphins and crocodiles, before moving back to on-site lodges by jeep or on foot. One of most famous places to visit in Nepal actually lies just north of Chitwan – there you’ll find Bandipur Nepal, home of the native Newari people and all manner of wild cats within Bandipur National Park.

Besides Annapurna, Langtang is another of Nepal’s best trekking regions, featuring a winning combination of old monasteries and Sherpa villages among magnificent high passes and panoramic mountain views. Langtang is one of the lesser-visited regions within the nation, meaning that the hiking trails here are generally less crowded than those closer to Kathmandu. For those seeking remote mountain solace, travel seven to eight hours by jeep or bus from the capital to land within reach of Langtang National Park, an area mapping the valleys at the base of central Himalaya, with trails beginning in either Dhunche or Syabrubensi.

The trekking routes here are rather less taxing than those of Annapurna, with the added advantage of passing through various traditional and ethnic villages en route to the peak of Langtang-Lirung (7,245). Though journeys to the peak could take a couple of weeks, other shorter multi-day trails include the Langtang Valley Trek, Tamang Heritage Trek, Gosaikunda trek and Helambu trek, each offering an up-close look at rural Buddhist culture as well as diverse flora and fauna in amongst small glaciers and virgin forest.

The birthplace of Siddhartha Gautama, the historic Buddha, Lumbini takes its deserved place as Buddhism’s most important pilgrimage town, visited by Buddhist pilgrims from across the globe on endeavours to retrace Buddha’s footsteps and see for themselves the ancient stone carving which marks his birth in 623 B.C. The surrounding archaeological area is also a sight to behold, once a teeming monastic complex lost to history for thousands of years before being uncovered in 1896. Today the ruins mark the past while more modern stupas, monasteries and temples rise fast in the area surrounding the modest Maya Devi Temple, said to be the actual spot where Buddha was born.

Situated off the main tourist track, on a detour from Pokhara to Chitwan, Lumbini is without the amenities of other key tourist spots, focusing more on religious enlightenment and contemplation. The new Siddharthangar Airport built nearby, however, is sure to raise Lumbini’s profile, as well as the neighbouring town of Tilaurakot where Prince Siddhartha is said to have spent his years of lavishness before embarking on the road to enlightenment.