Turkey: Crossroads of Time

The Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans have all played a role in shaping the diverse nation of Turkey, where iconic ruins decorate breath-taking landscapes ranging from the alpine pastures of the Kaçkar Mountains to the magical Fairy Chimneys of Cappadocia. The ancient ruins of Aegan cities like Ephesus, Bodrum and Izmir tell tales of Türkiye’s rich maritime heritage and bygone civilisations. Along the Mediterranean coast, sandy strips like Patara provide a welcome retreat for sunseekers. And then there’s the capital, Istanbul, which caters to history buffs, sightseers, gastronomy connoisseurs and leisure seekers, with attractions such as Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia plus activities ranging from hammam spa treatments to culinary tours and classes.

By spending ten days in Turkey, you can follow in the footsteps of sultans along the Silk Road, take in views of otherworldly vistas from a hot-air balloon, raft through canyon gorges, and feast on delicacies ranging from spicy Anatolian kebabs to olive oil-lathered Aegean vegetables. Our itinerary visits destinations including Istanbul, Cappadocia, Izmir and Bodrum, but there’s plenty more to see if you can spare more than ten days.

Turkey at a Glance

Turkey lies on the Mediterranean, mostly within West Asia’s Anatolia region, though there’s a small section in Southeast Europe separated from the rest of Turkey by the Turkish Straits. Towards the west, Turkey borders nations including Bulgaria and Greece as well as the Aegean Sea. Towards the northeast, Turkey borders Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia, while Syria, Iraq and Iran are located to the southeast. For sunseekers, Turkey’s beaches might best be visited during summer, but the mild weather of the shoulder seasons (April to May and September to October) provide optimal conditions to explore Turkey’s cities and ruins without the crowds or intense heat.

While homosexuality is legal in Turkey, prejudice, discrimination and violence against the LGBT community is common, particularly outside of big cities and cosmopolitan areas. Turkey is an Islamic nation that’s moving ever closer to traditional Middle Eastern values, particularly since the attempted coup in 2016, after which President Erdogan has worked to silence dissent and consolidate his power. The political and religious situation has resulted in turbulent times for the local LGBT community. And while reports highlight that LGBT people often face daily threats, the authorities rarely respond in a meaningful way. Sometimes, they do the opposite, as demonstrated by the violence that took place during Istanbul’s 2018 Pride march. The city’s Pride event was, this year, cancelled for the fourth year running.

In spite of this, Turkey is such a beautiful nation that gay travellers should not be put off a visit. Unlike in most Muslim countries, homosexual activity has been legal since 1923 in Turkey, and it was made legal in 1858 by Turkey’s predecessor, the Ottoman Empire. As a conservative nation, public displays of affection are frowned upon, regardless of gender or sexuality. You may see local men holding hands, but this is a common expression of friendship. Discretion is the name of the game in Turkey.

It’s worth noting that places like Bodrum have a thriving gay scene, with gay bars, pulsing dance floors and hammams. However, many gay locals choose to keep their sexuality a secret from the wider community and even their friends and families, so keep this in mind when enjoying Turkey’s gay venues.