Beautiful gay Romania: Sighisoara, Craiova, Bucharest, Brasov, Bran & Peles castles, and much more

The Romanian gay scene may still need a few years to catch up with Western Europe on the matter of gay rights, but, even today, despite lasting Romanian Orthodox influence, you’ll find progressive attitudes and a strong community can be found, most notably in the capital. Located in southeastern Europe, Romania, of course, has its struggles in the pursuit of LGBT rights. Most notably you’ll find that locals outside of the capital are somewhat socially conservative, with negative attitudes towards gay and transgender communities not uncommon. In terms of law, while the gay community is protected by anti-discrimination laws, same-sex couples are still unable to get married and influence from the church means this is very unlikely to change in the near future.

Gay rights organisations in Romania work tirelessly to advocate for gay rights and social acceptance but nevertheless Orthodox educations regarding ‘traditional family values’ has made it difficult to shrug off the notion of gay ‘immorality’. Be aware that rural towns and communities may think this way and open displays of queerness may be ill-advised. Find the most open gay scene in Bucharest, where tolerant and progressive locals live mostly in harmony with the LGBT community.

Upon starting out in the capital, one should know that Bucharest is undergoing some changes. Formerly under the communist dictatorship of Nicolai Ceausescu, the city had long been seen as Europe’s “forgotten capital” up until very recently when money from the European Union came flooding in and redevelopment projects began. Bucharest now sits under the dust of construction work and pretty bad traffic, but the potential of this south-central city is undeniable. Resist the urge to turn tail and run towards more rural parts on arrival in Bucharest International Airport and instead brave a few days of frenetic charm.

Patient visitors will be rewarded by various attractions, starting out at the sweeping Parliament Palace, the world’s second-largest building built for Ceausescu on the site of the woefully demolished historic centre. But revolution comes next, commemorated in the form of Revolution Square, now the heart of the city and home to the superb National Art Museum where Romanian medieval works hang proudly. Slightly north you’ll find Calea Victoriei where city life comes to shop, drink and socialise, while University Square, closer to the city’s famed north-south axis, is the actual site of the 1989 uprising. Below that lies the redevelopment area – and one-time historic centre –  which, though decidedly shabby, maintains popularity among locals for its great number of bars and restaurants, including some gay bar Bucharest hot spots.

Once out of the capital, Romania’s nature takes centre stage particularly in the region of central Romania, Transylvania, two hours north of Bucharest. The medieval towns and cities here seem straight out of a fairy tale, or indeed the famed gothic novel Dracula, a book inspired by the region. Never is this truer than in Sibiu, a town located on Transylvania’s Cibin River and once named European Capital of Culture thanks in part to its Baroque architecture and cobblestone appeal. But more than this, Sibiu sends visitors through the centuries, landing in the 12^th century at downtown Sibiu’s citadel built for German settlers (otherwise known as Transylvanian Saxons) when the region was a part of Hungary. Moving on in time, you’ll find the 15th-century Baroque styles of the Grand Square, followed by the gabled houses and church-laden squares of the 17^th century.

Though most of the city’s main historic attractions lie in the upper town, continue walking to the lower town for quaint streets and brightly coloured houses edging the imposing city walls and towers that lead down to the river. Other things to do while in Sibiu include a visit to the open-air ASTRA Museum of Folk Civilisation, an evening with the philharmonic orchestra, or summertime festivities of performing arts across Sibiu’s parks and theatres. For party animals wanting a wilder time in gay Sibiu however, Delirio Gay Club – a mainstay of Cluj-Napoca and a new addition to Sibiu’s nightlife scene – will be the highlight.

Walled in by preserved citadel walls built by 12^th century Germans, it’s clear that Sighisoara holds much intriguing history from the get-go. If you must know, it was on orders of the King of Hungary that the city be defended and, as a result, the city became a hub of trade for many centuries. Arguably the best-preserved medieval town in Europe, listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Sighisoara Romania has many stories to tell. Most famous of which is the story of Vlad the Impaler (or Prince Vlad Dracula), a 15th-century ruler immortalised in Bram Stoker’s eponymous Gothic novel as Count Dracula. Was Vlad a vampire? Probably not. But that doesn’t stop hordes of visitors visiting the ex-ruler’s home as well as the Church on the Hill, Dominican Monastery and Venetian House, all landmarks depicted within the novel.

Picture-perfect and oh-so Gothic, it’s easy to see why Stoker would want to immortalise this town in literature. Pull your eyes from the pages to glimpse gingerbread roofs and cobbled lanes eclipsed by medieval church towers high up on the town’s forested hills. While there is a great amount of vampire-themed souvenirs, Sighisoara may also surprise you with its rather more cute café scene on commercial streets boasting boutique hotels and local craft stores.

While vampire sightings are unlikely, jaw-dropping castles are ubiquitous in Transylvania. There’s the 14^th century Corvin Castle and King Carol’s 19th-century abode, but the spookiest of them all must be Bran Castle in Bran, 25 kilometres southwest of Brasov. A dynamic city home to much fascinating history, Brasov offers more than just Dracula’s fictional residence. While the 13th-century hilltop castle is seen by many to be the highlight of the city, other worthy attractions include the Black Church cathedral and its 4,000 pipe organ, as well as Rope Street, the nation’s narrowest alleyway. While it’s easy to have sporty adventures in Brasov, thanks to world-class skiing and ice skating services high up in the Carpathian mountains, don’t leave without taking time to wander the centre. Try Council Square and the nearby museum before or after getting lost in the maze of streets lined with boho cafés and gingerbread-style houses. While gay Brasov is slightly subdued, the mixed local nightlife is enough to keep most amused.

Another university town this time in the Pelendava region, Craiova is the perfect resting point for travellers making their way from Bucharest to Timisoara. More than that however Craiova offers both historic interest and youthful vibes, largely within the walkable old centre. Evermore palaces allow insight into Craiova’s wealthy past,  but it’s the town’s art museum – the one-time home of Romania’s richest family, as well as an ex-monarch, former Yugoslav leader and exiled Polish president – that reveals the most. Inside, you’ll also find the renowned works of sculptor Constantin Brâncuşi.

Delving further into Craiova’s past, you’ll learn that the town is based on the ancient site of Dacian and Roman settlements. A Roman fortress uncovered in Trajan, for example, is among the town’s oldest archaeological finds. Most of the history on show in Craiova, however, is from the 15^th to 18^th centuries. Surviving an earthquake in 1790, shortly followed by the plague and a Turkish assault in 1802,  St. Dimitru Church still stands from 1652, rebuilt in original styles.

It’s not often a series of buildings warrant a passage of their own, but for the Bucovina monasteries, we make an exception. Located in the northeast, in the cultural gateway town of Suceava, the monasteries live peacefully among other  UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the Bucovina Ethnographic Museum and the Princely Court. Elaborately painted in 15^th and 16th-century Byzantine frescoes, depicting saints, prophets and the afterlife, the Bucovina monasteries must be seen to be believed. Amble through tranquil villages from Bucovina to Lasi, marvelling at the perfectly preserved buildings alongside modern examples of local craftsmanship, such as rare black pottery in Marginea.

The culmination of Europe’s largest river leaves a deep impression on all who visit. At the meeting point between the Danube and the Black Sea in the Dobrogea region, the Danube Delta flourishes with life of all kinds. Home to the world’s largest wetland area, the delta is home to 23 distinct ecosystems, each fostering unique species of plant and animal life. Over 5,000 square kilometres of snaking riverbed there is said to be some 300 bird species and 45 species of fresh-water fish inhabiting the lakes and marshes bordering the Delta’s main artery.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Danube Delta is best seen by boat, particularly on slow-moving sunset cruises when the view is at its most sublime. Otherwise, venture closer to the coastline for spectacular hiking opportunities within the Delta Biosphere Reserve, before returning to civilisation by way of the sleepy fishing village of Sulina. Romania’s easternmost point, Sulina is a worthy base before embarking on nature tours in the region, with tranquil beaches and authentic lodgings close to Argamum and Enisala medieval fortresses as well as the orthodox monasteries of Saon and Celic Dere.