Korea 10 days itinerary: the very best of a trip to South Korea

The subject of gay rights in South Korea is somewhat taboo, particularly among older Koreans from beyond the capital. While there have never been laws incriminating homosexuality, Korean society is not overly accepting or tolerant of that which they don’t understand, closed off as it was for centuries. Though the current progressive democratic party has pushed for the inclusion of sexual orientation in anti-discrimination laws, far-right conservative groups push back. You’ll see a similar tension play out if attending Seoul’s annual pride parade when gay rights campaigners face a picket line of religious conservatives. Gladly, however, the nature of Korean society is pretty placid and therefore issues such as these rarely lead to outright confrontation or violence.

Interestingly, despite denial of queer culture among some older Koreans, in celebrity culture, you’ll find openly gay K-pop stars, transgender TV personalities (such as Ha Ri-Su) and even national K-pop treasures BTS openly advocating for LGBT rights. And while younger people are more and more open on the subject, many remain ‘in-the-closet’ in avoidance of family and cultural stigma. Regardless of traditional values, queer culture is very much alive and well in the nation if you know where to look. Along with the recent success of Seoul’s first gay drag parade and the growing popularity of Hongdae and Itaewon’s gay clubs and bars, the South Korea gay scene gets bigger and better each year. For downbeat fun, Haebangchon district near Itaewon is where you’ll find the liberal expat scene, but for something a little more age-appropriate, try the fancy gay bars around Jongno. Outside of gay Seoul meanwhile, you’ll also find fun gay neighbourhoods in the cities of Busan and Daegu.

In just ten days it’s possible to see many of South Korea’s best bits, concentrating on the two main metropolitan cities of Seoul and Busan. In addition to the shopping hubs of Seoul and the seafood markets of Busan however, this South Korea travel itinerary will take you to the historic villages of Jeonju and aboard the ferry to Korea’s very own version of Hawaii. This 2020, bear in mind that COVID-19 travel restrictions require anyone entering South Korea from abroad to undergo a 14-day self-isolation before beginning any travel adventure.

A key first step on every South Korea travel itinerary is to the international city of Seoul, a place so convenient and vibrant you might never want to leave. If time is limited, however, we’d recommend allocating three days in Seoul, condensing all its many palaces, tea shops and city hikes into one manageable bite. Home of approximately 10 million people, Seoul seems to stretch without limit, crossing the banks of the Hanggang River in the south and creeping into the foothills of Bukhansan Mountains in the north. The city’s labyrinthine subway system makes every neighbourhood reachable but can leave newcomers a little overwhelmed by the sheer selection of train lines and colours.

To gain perspective on Seoul it’s necessary to climb a little. Though there are guided bus tours serving the serene hills around the President’s residential ‘Blue House’, we recommend navigating the buses or hailing a taxi to reach the trailhead of any of Seoul’s best mountains – from Bukhansan to Gwanaksan – where the ‘Land of the Morning Calm’ finally delivers. Read up on all the best bits of South Korea’s capital with our dedicated Seoul travel guide, or follow our three-day plan below…

Moving down south towards the Jeollabuk-do region via KTX high-speed rail, we settle ourselves in Jeonju, the birthplace of both the Joseon Dynasty and the bibimbap, Korea’s staple dish of rice, egg, vegetables and hot sauce. While Seoul is not short of Hanok villages, Jeonju’s Hanok Maeul brings a rather more authentic example, where traditional wooden houses line wonky alleys clustered within the city’s historic centre. Less crowded than the capital’s offerings, Jeonju also has the added appeal of being the nation’s foodie capital, once named a UNESCO city of gastronomy, with museums dedicated to the craft of soju and rice wine as well as other traditional handicrafts. From there, hunt down the city’s Gyeonggijeon Shrine and rate some art within the Royal Portrait Museum, with a second chance of dressing up in traditional Hanbok for the best vacation photos. Other highlights in the city include the Omadae Viewpoint and the Jaman mural village for local street art and small town vibes.

Requiring a flight or a ferry to reach, Jeju Island ducks the crowds and excitements of the mainland to remain a blissfully calm island retreat on the south coast. One of the most popular domestic vacations among Koreans, Jeju is famed for its clean air and sustainable vision, demonstrated by its carbon-neutral mission and ecotourism attractions. Though public transport is available across the island, buses can get crowded and renting an electric vehicle to get around is definitely the better option! With your own two or four wheels, you can circumnavigate Jeju with ease, stopping off at any of the island’s best attractions – from volcanic peaks to Hello Kitty theme parks – at your own pace.

With as many as three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in reach of a lively capital city, Jeju Island is sure to keep you entertained for at least a weekend. Choose to tackle Mt. Hallasan (Korea’s highest peak) on a full-day round trip before taking to the underground caves and lava tunnels hidden beneath the landscape on day two. If seeking a challenge other than Mt Hallasan, consider the Olle Trail, a coastal path which loops the entire island passing by waterfalls, rock formations and tea fields.

In addition to outdoor adventure, our Jeju Island itinerary also gives us the chance to unwind in style at any of its luxury spa hotels, many offering volcanic treatments and locally-sourced beauty products from Innisfree. Alongside volcanic wellness, the city centre can also provide shopping and café culture, in reach of the Jeju National Museum, Chocolate Museum and the slightly more risqué Museum of Sex and Health. For street eats and souvenirs, however, Dongmun Market is sure to satisfy as the largest indoor market on Jeju.

Though not as conveniently laid out as Seoul, Busan has its own humble subway system serving all the top urban attractions, with buses running regularly into the mountains for hiking and temple excursions. Tour the city’s eclectic markets – circling out from Jagalchi Fish Market – finding everything from raw octopus delicacies to second-hand fashion, besides any number of chic cafés and no-fuss restaurants. The hip commercial district of Seomyeon with its video games arcades and neon-lit restaurant scene is also an option to while away an afternoon.

Outside of deep winter and high summer, the weather in Busan is often perfect for a beach day. Head to the ex-pat district of Haeundae for California-style coastline fronted by glittering hotels and cedar-lined walking trails, moving inland come sundown for quality seafood restaurants and a spot of local nightlife at nearby Gwangan Beach where gay Busan is centred.

If you have another full day to fill in your Korea itinerary and still have the energy, gain some perspective with one final hike within the region. There are a number of paths running along the coast – such as Moontan Road to Songjeong Beach, Igidae viewpoint walk or the more challenging Geumjeong-san hike – but other more rural options include the breath-taking temple hike around Seokbul-sa.