The best Dominica beaches and where to stay

With a name as intriguing as Purple Turtle Beach, you might have high hopes for this northern offering, conveniently located near Portsmouth town. Nor does this black-speckled beach disappoint, seeing nesting turtles proliferate on the more isolated Turtle Bay, a little way off the main Purple Bay. On Purple Bay itself, there’s plenty to do, including volleyball and various water sports (jet skiing or kayaking and wind surfing). Regular reggae and soca concerts keep the mood up for dancing into the night, but on quieter days the bars and restaurants that run parallel – such as the casual Beach Club or the elegant Sailor Man’s Club – can offer up authentic Dominican cuisine over peachy sunsets. Cabrits National Park lies north of Purple Turtle Beach, with over nine more beaches to explore or, otherwise, there’s the option to gain insight into the island’s history at Fort Shirley.

Another top consideration on your vacation to Dominica is Douglas Bay within Cabrits National Park. Thanks to its remote northwest location near Fort Shirley, Douglas Bay remains relatively low-key all year-round, and is all but deserted in the off-season. If you can handle the lack of facilities, make the journey towards Capuchin from Portsmouth, finding untouched white sands on a small bay along the Waitukubuli National Trail (Segment 14).

Of the nearby Dominica resorts, Cabrits Resort & Spa Kempinski is a clear winner for its luxury villas and rooms with access to four pools, two tennis courts and a full-service spa designed to fit seamlessly within the natural beauty of the bay.

Batibou Beach (also known as Hampstead Beach) is another sheltered gem facing the northeast, bordering the small fishing village of Calibishie. One of the lesser-known beaches of dominica with minimal facilities, Batibou Beach is perfect for getting away from it all, relaxing on dark sands underneath leaning coconut palms, but you should always check that conditions are safe before going for a swim. Batibou once served as a filming location for the movie Pirates of the Caribbean due to its desert island feel, remaining very much the same today. To access the beach, you’ll have to pay $5 (USD) for parking (pulling off the road between Calibishie and Anse de Mai) and tackling the poorly maintained 1.5-kilometre trail by 4X4 vehicle or on foot through the jungle. If you don’t fancy paying the fee, consider the completely free Number One Beach, a lookalike located east of Batibou at the mouth of the Hampstead River.

Not far from Pointe Baptiste is the golden stretch of Woodford Hill Beach, a rare finding on an island largely covered in black sands. Its unique colour is a result of coral reefs in the area, eroded to form brown, pink and white sands over thousands of years. Woodford Hill has fewer crowds than the beaches around Portsmouth, allowing for a Dominica vacation retreat away from the masses. Nevertheless, Woodford Hill Beach is as exciting as the rest, offering snorkelling, kayaking and beach tubing on shallow waters, and land sports such as volleyball and horse riding. When diving in the area, keep an eye out for tropical species such as starfish, turtles and blowfish, as well as dolphins that venture into the area’s lagoon-like waters. Back on land, verdant rainforest and jagged cliffs provide the perfect backdrop, forming a number of intimate coves and bays just waiting to be explored.

Lying above hot springs on the edge of Point Michele is the uniquely stunning Champagne Beach, not far from Roseau. Though stony, Champagne Beach is a favourite among travellers for its bubbling warm waters, the result of volcanic action on the ocean floor. Besides bathing, these clear waters are perfect for snorkelling and diving, with marine life protected under the Soufriere-Scott’s Head Marine Reserve and land creatures such as iguanas, endemic lizards, bats and birds also resident onshore. Come at midday for the best snorkelling or late afternoon for sunsets to die for, accessing the beach by driving south past Point Michele and parking beside the Irie Safari café-bar, to enter the beach along a paved walkway.

Those looking for accommodation in the area can consider the historical Fort Young Hotel, 1.2 kilometres from Roseau. The hotel comes carved out of volcanic stone and paved with 18th-century cobbles to create an enchanting setting on the sea edge, offering al fresco dining and diving lessons close to attractions such as Trafalgar Falls and Titou Gorge.

A worthy finale for all Dominica vacations is Scott’s Head, a small peninsula jutting from the southwest coast to overlook Soufriere Bay. Besides proximity to the island’s best diving and snorkelling sites, Scott’s Head is great for hikers and those seeking wilderness landscapes, just one hour from Roseau. Hike to the highest point of the peninsula for spectacular views all the way to Martinique, continuing along the Waitukubuli National Trail for more of a challenge. For divers, it’s the Swiss Cheese rock formation that gets the most attention, home of the Soldierfish Cave reef passage and shoals of tropical fish. Every summer, the Scott’s Head village community organises a feast in honour of Saint Peter, a great way to learn of local culture and see historical landmarks in the village.