The best time to visit Zanzibar is always: Discover the majesty of gay Zanzibar

Distinct from the African continent, Zanzibar locals are largely of Swahili origin, though Arab and Indian culture also is a strong influence on the land. Islam is the main religion practised in Zanzibar and along with it there’s the need for visitors to dress modestly and be discreet about drinking alcohol in public. Sad to say, homosexuality is still illegal across Tanzania and prosecutions are not uncommon. Even as recently as 2017, 20 people were arrested at an HIV/AIDS education session on Zanzibar island following the government’s suspension of national AIDS programs.

While you should know that homosexual behaviour in public could lead to arrest and possible imprisonment, non-African visitors to the island who practice caution and discretion are unlikely to experience any problems. Refrain from public displays of affection regardless of orientation and you should be fine. Staff within the tourist industry are used to dealing with international clientele and little fuss should be made regarding orientation or sleeping arrangements.

What with April to October being Zanzibar’s rainy season, the best time to visit Zanzibar is earlier in the year, between the months of November and March. For the best Zanzibar weather, December reigns supreme. Rainy season accommodation may come cheaper but there is a higher risk of storms and less than favourable beach conditions. Regardless of when you travel, there is always the risk of malaria in the region. Visit a travel clinic before travelling, choosing a malaria tablet suitable for diving if needed. Vaccinations and certifications against yellow fever may also be needed depending on your origin country.

There is little public transportation offered in Zanzibar and walking is the preferred way to get around for short journeys. For day trips across the island, visitors can ride in a taxi or dalla-dalla (minivan), moving to the port for boat services between Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam on the mainland. For taxi rides, prepare to haggle forcefully with your driver for a fair deal or inevitably pay inflated prices. Otherwise, booking a shared shuttle ride through your hotel may allow for an easier experience. This need to haggle is just one pointer of the social inequalities at play on the island; in truth, around half of the population live below the poverty line, most notably in rural parts.

The currency used in Zanzibar and across Tanzania is the Tanzanian shilling, which is best bought before travelling or at the airport on arrival. There are just two ATMS on Zanzibar island and your hotel is likely to charge exorbitant exchange rates. Though most shops and tour operators will only accept shillings, many hotels will only accept US Dollars or Euros, leading to a bank fee if paying your balance by credit card. As little as four to five days will be enough time to cover the majority of main attractions on Zanzibar, but if there’s no rush, consider spending longer on the island, relaxing into the easy-going atmosphere with a week to ten days.

Stone Town towards the west of the island is the most developed area in Zanzibar but gladly still maintains its old-world magic. Most famed as the birthplace of Freddie Mercury, Stone Town is actually more accurately known as Zanzibar Town, divided by Creek Road into two equal parts; Stone Town to the west being the oldest part and the newer developments of Ng’ambo (literally meaning ‘the other side’) off to the east. Surrounding, you’ve also got the ever-growing suburbs of Amaani, Mazizini, Magomeni and Mwanakwerekwe, hosting a contrast of both slums and middle-class neighbourhoods.

Like the rest of the island, there is little public transportation in Stone Town and so walking is the way to go. Thankfully, the centre is easily walkable allowing for long meandering strolls through maze-like streets that pass through hundreds of years of history. As well as a number of ancient ruins propped up by bordering residences, Stone Town also holds former palaces, Persian bathhouses and stone mansions of ornately carved design. Lose yourself to the streets for a while, sampling the strong local coffee and crafts, following the spires of St Joseph’s Cathedral and the Old Fort for direction. Towering above the rest beside the fort is the Palace of Wonders; the main point of interest in Zanzibar holding a whole load of incredible history and firsts for the island, such as its first elevator.

A top choice of what to do in Zanzibar on an afternoon is undoubtedly a beach visit. While beaches are not hard to find on Zanzibar, Nungwi Beach on the northwest tip of the island is a favourite thanks to its stunning sundown views. Found to the edge of Nungwi Village, the beach has long been used as a launch deck for local fishing boats putting in and out of the bay. The only change these days is the string of hotels now overlooking the shore. Rather than being a negative, however, these resorts ensure the beach’s white sand and turquoise water stay looking their best. Kendwa Beach is another nice alternative to view the sunset in the north, around 10 minutes away by car (or water taxi) from Nungwi, and, though slightly more secluded, also offers its fair share of restaurants and things to do.

A convenient addition to your Jozani Forest excursion is the adventurer’s paradise of Paje Beach, arguably the best beach on the southeast coast. Windsurfing is the go-to activity on Paje thanks to reliable winds and choppy surf, with newbies, also catered to. Take advantage of the many kitesurfing trainers operating along the beach, learning the ropes alongside other backpackers and laidback locals. After riding the waves, refuel at any of the bohemian cafés or burger bars dotting the shoreline, opting to stay over at a hostel to better hone your kitesurfing skills over a few days. The best time for kitesurfing is between January and February or June to September, but the area is both affordable and fun most of the year-round.

There’s no better symbol of Zanzibar’s Arabic influence than the dual-sails of Dhow cruise ships navigating the waters surrounding. Board one of these luxury vessels for an experience to remember, heading out into open water for peachy sunsets peeking through bright white sails. Beside the romantic sunset views, a Dhow Cruise allows visitors to find a moment of tranquillity when the engines are swapped for manual sails and the wind takes over. At any other time of day, however, a Dhow cruise is still a good choice, allowing for snorkelling stop-offs before disembarking at Kwale Island for a seafood buffet lunch. As the snorkelling here is not the island’s best, opt to stay on Kwale a little longer to properly explore the local beaches and shops in the shade of huge baobab trees.

While admittedly Zanzibar gay life is not as open as we’d like it to be, there’s the decent alternative of veering from the beaten track to find a secret retreat, just for your lover and you. Two such beaches are Matemwe and Pingwe, both edged by private luxury resorts where pampering and honeymooning is the call of the day. Both lie hidden along the east coast, with Matemwe the most tranquil of the two offering fishing, snorkelling and diving in utmost peace and quiet. Slightly further south meanwhile is Pingwe, a great spot for sunset views with its own selection of laidback bars and restaurants, such as the exclusive Rock Restaurant lying literally on a small rock just off the coast. While you’re in the area, try nearby Michamvi Kae for its paddle-boarding excursions among mangrove forests or take it easy in Jambiani fishing village, the heart of the island’s seaweed farming industry.