Istanbul Travel Guide

An aptly named homage to Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk’s novel; the impossibly quirky, endlessly fascinating Museum of Innocence in Çukurcuma may be small but what it lacks in size it makes up for with an enormous, cultural punch. When the warm Turkish sun proves too beguiling to stay indoors, head to the public gardens at Cihangir Mosque and drink in the spectacular views of the Bosphorus Strait, the dividing line between Istanbul’s European side and the Asian shores that lie a stone’s throw away.

When the sun sets, Cihangir comes alive as some of the hottest nightspots the city has to offer begin to wake. At Jash, gramophones, artefacts and impromptu explosions of live music all work to make you feel as if you are dining in the private parlour of some wildly eclectic, infinitely interesting bon vivant. For breath-taking views and visionary cuisine to match, head to Chef Mehmet Gürs’ Mikla. Perched atop the Marmara Pera Hotel, Mikla’s tasting menu is a journey not to be missed. Cap off your evening by dancing the night away at Reina, the area’s most glamorous nightspot where techno beats and crafted cocktails are served with killer views – of the celebrities who favour the high-energy club, that is.

Not far from Cihangir is Fatih. One of the more conservative areas of Istanbul, you won’t find bare shoulders or raucous nightclubs in Fatih. What you will find is a cacophony of traditional flavours, the sights and sounds of a vibrant market (Malta Çarşi) and a deeply rooted sense of ancient culture that seems to shroud the area. Once a virtually untouched part of Istanbul, when Fatih gained UNESCO notoriety and the attention of trendsetters like Anthony Bourdainthe formerly quiet streets were launched into stardom. Head there for some of the best local food on the planet – a bowl of tripe soup from Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi is rumoured to be a magical, hangover-curing concoction while the grilled meats at Sur Ocakbaşı have been known to make even the most devout vegan rethink their calling.

In stark contrast to what one might expect for an area more known for mosques than professional sports; Fatih is home to the world-class Bağcılar Olympic Sports Hall. The unlikely landmark was a source of inspiration for the Dosso Dossi, a downtown luxury hotel boasting an entire floor dedicated to the needs of visiting athletes. Luckily, you don’t have to be an Olympiad to take advantage of Dosso Dossi’s spa – replete with indoor pool, Turkish bath, master masseurs, steam room, and sauna, the spa has everything one could wish for a day of complete indulgence.

Refreshed from a day at the spa, venturing off for some shopping in Istanbul’s famous old city is an excellent way to wile away an afternoon. In the Old City you’ll find the souks and bazaars synonymous with Istanbul along with some the bespoke experiences available only through the city’s smaller, luxury retailers.

For exquisite rugs, Nakkas puts decades of expertise to work for clients who flock from all corners of the globe to peruse their collection. Located in a meticulously restored palace just across from Park Ici Yolu; Nakkas boasts an in-house jewellery division, fine ceramic boutique, a working loom on the main level where weavers ply their craft and an elegant rooftop garden where you can kick back with a plate of sweet dates served with piping hot glasses of apple scented tea. Nakkas has even elevated their ancient cistern, transforming the underground archaeological treasure into a gallery that showcases art from around the world.

The old city is also where you’ll find the studio of internationally renowned jeweller Sevan Bıçakçı. One glimpse at the intricately detailed, gem-encrusted pieces that have won the hearts of clients including Catherine Zeta-Jones, Celine Dion and Mariah Carey and you’ll understand completely why this understated atelier is so highly regarded. Gilan’s collection of fine jewellery and ‘Objets d’Art’ is also worth a look. With several boutique locations across the city, Gilan is a ‘go-to’ choice for cufflinks, rings and other adornments for both men and women. Expect to find creations that are striking yet exquisitely, delicately wrought.

The allure of Turkish art and fashion continues well into the night when you choose Istanbul’s The House Hotel Nisantasi. This boutique hotel perched above the Prada store on Abdi İpekçi Caddesi is home to 45 rooms and suites. Created through a collaborative effort that included international award-winning Turkish design firm Autoban, The House Hotel Nisantasi is crafted to make you feel as if you’ve landed in an impossibly fabulous pied-a-terre. The metro-stylish hotel welcomes guests into spaces rich with organic colour, with unique furnishings and dramatic effects courtesy of the glass-walled bathrooms and sprawling closets offered by many of the accommodations. While there, start the day with the hotel’s buffet breakfast and in the afternoons, regroup and recap over drinks at the bar.