Gay Rome Rome City Guide

In a word, Rome is dramatic. It’s Audrey Hepburn hitching up her dress and climbing onto a Vespa in Piazza Navona. Anita Ekberg dancing in the Trevi Fountain. Charlton Heston wearing a toga. As anyone who has set foot on these seven illustrious hills will confirm, the basic cinematic assumptions are no exaggeration. But the drama isn’t just immortalised in the excessive number of films set in Rome. There’s drama in the grand scale of its ancient ruins, Baroque churches and Renaissance palaces. And there’s drama in the Roman people who enjoy la dolce vita with enthusiasm — often conveyed loudly and in their language of hand gestures. Because Rome is chock-a-block with things that have seemingly lasted or existed forever (it’s not called the Eternal City for nothing) many travellers get lost in the vast ruins of the Roman Forum and the incredible details of the Colosseum. But as this Rome travel guide will reveal, those who go beyond the basics will discover that Italy’s chaotic capital is transforming into a modern metropolis — one that’s wonderfully cosmopolitan yet quintessentially Italian.

Where to stay in Rome

For the discerning gay traveller seeking the pinnacle of Roman luxury, the Eternal City presents an array of exceptional establishments that masterfully blend historical grandeur with contemporary sophistication. Perched atop the Spanish Steps, the Rocco Forte Hotel De La Ville commands attention with its privileged position and sweeping views across Rome’s terracotta-tinted skyline. This 18th-century palazzo has been transformed into a haven of refined elegance, where contemporary design meets classical Roman aesthetics. The rooftop bar and restaurant, Cielo, offers a sublime setting for aperitivo, while the 104 rooms and suites, designed by Tommaso Ziffer in collaboration with Olga Polizzi, showcase a sophisticated mix of contemporary furniture and ancient Roman artefacts.

Just steps away, the intimate Portrait Roma, part of the prestigious Lungarno Collection by Salvatore Ferragamo, offers an ultra-exclusive retreat with merely 14 lavishly appointed suites. This boutique gem mirrors the sophistication of its fashion house heritage, with interiors that pay homage to the glamorous 1950s era of Italian haute couture. The rooftop lounge, reserved exclusively for guests, provides an incomparable setting for private cocktails with spectacular views over Via Condotti and the Spanish Steps.

Making a grand entrance onto Rome’s luxury hotel scene, the Bulgari Hotel Roma occupies a magnificent 1930s modernist building in the prestigious Campo Marzio neighbourhood. This architectural masterpiece seamlessly blends Bulgari’s signature contemporary design with references to the eternal city’s rich heritage. The hotel’s crown jewel is its stunning rooftop restaurant and bar, offering panoramic views of the nearby Ara Pacis and Mausoleum of Augustus. The spa, featuring a 25-metre pool adorned with mosaics, provides a serene escape from the bustling city streets.

Tucked away in a quiet corner near Via Margutta, Hotel Vilòn exudes discrete luxury from its position within a wing of the storied Palazzo Borghese. This intimate 18-room property offers a more residential feel, perfect for those seeking privacy and personalised service. The Adelaide restaurant, helmed by a Michelin-starred chef, serves sophisticated Roman cuisine with a contemporary twist, while the secluded courtyard provides a tranquil setting for breakfast or evening cocktails.

Completing our curated selection is J.K. Place Roma, situated in the former architecture school of the University of Rome. This sophisticated townhouse hotel brings together mid-century modern furniture, contemporary art, and classical Roman elements to create spaces that feel both timeless and of-the-moment. The J.K. Café has become a beloved meeting spot for Rome’s creative set, while the library lounge offers an intimate setting for afternoon tea or evening cocktails. The 30 rooms and suites, designed by Michele Bönan, feature rosewood canopy beds, Italian marble bathrooms, and bespoke furnishings that create an atmosphere of understated luxury.