Doug’s trip to Santiago, Mendoza & Valparaiso

Tucked between the majestic Andes Mountains and the Chilean Coastal Range, Santiago promises a little bit of everything—from world-class museums to thought-provoking street art to leafy neighbourhoods dotted with sidewalk cafes. Santiago’s comfortable Mediterranean climate provides the perfect atmosphere for an amble through one of its many stately hillside parks. And of course, wine lovers won’t want to miss a stop at any of the dozen or so nearby vineyards, where you can sip on top-rated Carmenere and Cab Sauv—yet still make it back to the city centre for dinner. In stark contrast to the oppressive Pinochet years (when homosexuality was suppressed entirely), Santiago now has a large, open and diverse LGBTQ community, with LGBTQ organizations and activists continuing to fight repression to achieve equal rights.

Mendoza is a large province (nearly the size of Illinois) that is home to 75% of Argentina’s vineyards and Malbec is the region’s most celebrated grape. Of course, this wasn’t always the case. Malbec’s rise to international fame began in the early 2000s when the country’s political and economic situation stabilised long enough for the wineries to begin investing in improvements once again. Since the 2005 vintage, several producers have garnered top scores for their Malbec wines. So, suffice it to say, Mendoza Malbec isn’t just a pleasant 'mid-week drinking wine', it’s serious business.

Syncopated, dilapidated, colourful and poetic, Valparaíso is a wonderful mess. Pablo Neruda, who drew much inspiration from this hard-working port town, said it best: 'Valparaíso, how absurd you are…you haven't combed your hair, you've never had time to get dressed, life has always surprised you.' But Neruda wasn't the only artist to fall for Valparaíso's unexpected charms. Poets, painters and would-be philosophers have long been drawn to Chile's most unusual city. Along with the ever-shifting port population of sailors, dockworkers and prostitutes, they've endowed gritty and gloriously spontaneous Valparaíso with an edgy air of 'anything goes.' Add to this the spectacular faded beauty of its chaotic cerros (hills), some of the best street art in Latin America, a maze of steep, sinuous streets, alleys and escaleras (stairways) piled high with crumbling mansions, and it's clear why some visitors spend more time here than in Santiago. Chile may be on the conservative side of the LGBTQ spectrum, but Valparaíso ranks as one of the gayest places on the entire continent. It's just so Bohemian here – hip, cool, super laid back. There are queer people everywhere, and no one bats an eyelid.