The ultimate gay Germany itinerary: 2 weeks including gay Austria

The pinnacle for many Euro-tripping gay travellers, Germany is renowned for fiercely progressive attitudes and laws that allow everyone to live in any way they choose. Alongside this liberal ethos, Germany’s population is richly diverse and its culture just as dynamic. In Germany, you can find some of the best gay venues anywhere in the world, with calendars packed full of annual events such as Gay Pride in springtime and other niche LGBTQ festivals throughout the year.

In Berlin and Cologne, the gay scene is particularly stand out, proffering broad communities of rainbow-flag-flying locals where internationals are warmly welcomed. Likewise, within the smaller cities of Hamburg, Frankfurt and Munich, the gay scene remains sizable and open to all. Same-sex marriage is legal across the nation though you may find more conservative attitudes the further east you go, particularly in rural towns.

Germans are often characterised as efficient and straightforward, and this sentiment certainly rings true for the nation’s transport. Regular flights operate both domestically and internationally across Europe, though there are also many on-land options such as the regular and high-speed rail (Deutsche Bahn, InterCity Express or cross-border Eurocity rail). Save money by booking trains in advance or invest in the 15-day German Rail Pass valid over a one-month period. Other scenic routes across the country include riverboat, bus, bike and car. If you intend to remain largely in the city, renting a car may not be the best way to go as parking can be limited and expensive, fuel and insurance being two other considerable costs to consider. Instead, get to grips with the public transport system within urban hubs, travelling by train between cities with increased ease.

To best explore the countryside, however, self-drive trips are a top consideration. Travel with a large group to cut your costs further, braving the lawless Autobahn superhighway or the somewhat calmer two-lane Bundesstrassen before tackling the winding rural roads. Those that are confident enough to undertake a road trip will win total freedom to discover Germany’s lesser-known gems, passing medieval villages on the ‘Romantic Road’ from Wurzburg and Fussen or dramatic mountain scenery on the Alpenstrasse road towards Bavaria. Those considering the Alpenstrasse should buy the driving pass known as the ‘Austrian Vignette’ in order to pass through the border tolls whenever needed with the least amount of stress.

Whatever your means of getting here, your first day in Germany is likely to be in the city, with Frankfurt being a top choice as the country’s most important transport hub, connected to every continent and major city in the world. Once you arrive, waste no time in acquainting yourself with the city’s unique history, taking in the 14th-century Kaiserdom where German kings and emperors were once crowned and the Imperial Cathedral built in the same era. Within the heart of the city, it’s the Romerberg that gets all the attention, a picturesque public square built in the time of the Holy Roman Empire and dominated by the Romer building – the seat of government for over six centuries. Other cultural spots include the entirety of the old town (Altstadt), in proximity to world-class museums, art galleries and laid-back cafés all within quaint yet stylish surroundings.

As well as being an economic powerhouse, Frankfurt boasts cosmopolitan attitudes and evermore diversity among glittering architecture and an impressive cityscape to rival any modern American city. Nicknamed ‘Mainhattan’ for this very reason, Frankfurt offers a vibrant nightlife and an established gay scene centred on the city’s ‘Bermuda Triangle’ on Alte Gasse in the downtown area. It’s here you’ll find the city’s cluster of queer venues, bars and clubs, where partygoers can get lost for days at a time! At Pride especially you’re unlikely to want to leave, indulging in any number of dive bars and fetish clubs, with a fair amount of techno music thrown in. After the queer disco ends, explore a little further from the main triangle for the city’s gay saunas and cruising spots. In between all the partying, ensure to get some blissful rest with a stay at the best hotels in Frankfurt.

Allow the train to whisk you away with ease or take the scenic road to the Black Forest town of Baden-Baden, a well-to-do spot frequented by royalty and world leaders. Everyone from Obama to Queen Victoria has had a spell in Baden, bathing in the town’s curative thermal baths and wandering the manicured gardens on the edge of the Oos River. With France not far across the border, Baden has a distinct Gallic edge most evident among its open-air cafés and stylish boutique stores.

A fashionable spa town since Roman times, Baden remains a perfect place for pampering, within luxury Belle Époque hotels or art nouveau villas on the hillsides overlooking the town centre. As well as spa time, Baden is a great base for exploring the surrounding Black Forest National Park, on guided walks or adventure day trips before returning to town for a little gamble at the palatial casino.

If you’ve not done so already, from Baden you’re sure to want to enter into the mystical mountain woodlands surrounding, becoming the main character in your very own Brothers Grimm tale. Though you might not find any gingerbread houses, the Black Forest holds much magic, such as log cabins, castle ruins and impressive cuckoo clocks set to surprise on the hour. As well as natural valleys, meadows and waterfalls among the evergreens, the Black Forest is also a place to experience cultural traditions, from the towns and villages that line the Rhine all the way to Lake Constance.

Next on our itinerary for Germany is the city of Salzburg, one-time home of Mozart on the Salzach River. A historic city with many tales to tell, Salzburg wears the domes and spires of centuries past, all protected by the impressive Hohensalzburg Fortress up on the mountains surrounding. Follow in the footsteps of the prince-archbishop and The Sound of Music’s Maria into the UNESCO World Heritage old town where lies the baroque cathedral, summer palace of Hellbrunn and the Stiegl-Brauwelt brewery. Other more contemporary attractions include the Museum of Modern Art and the Sound of Music tour which visits the town’s most iconic movie spots. As well as allowing for Julie Andrews themed photos, gay Salzburg is surprisingly cosmopolitan with a lively party scene made all the better thanks to the high number of international tourists. HOSI is one such organisation hosting regular events and city tours, with the handful of gay bars and clubs also serving as popular meeting points.

Another liberal city begins our second week in Germany, this time allowing us to sample Germany’s best beer halls and street cafes among charming heritage establishments. Boasting a royal Bavarian history, Munich is sure to win you over with lederhosen-clad locals wielding large tankards of beer, but more than that, the city also serves up a vibrant culture that embraces both modernity and tradition in equal measure. There’s no better place to see this in action than within the Glockenbachviertel neighbourhood where hipster bars and the city’s gay scene lies on quaint 18th-century plazas and within grand four-storey terraces. Walk between Munich’s museums and galleries in Kunstareal, taking in the living culture of Gemütlichkeit – an untranslatable notion of warmth, well-being and relaxation – before touring any of the six city breweries to see how Munich earns its title as the beer capital of the world.

Once touring become tiresome, end the day in any number of beer gardens to revel in the music of the local oompah band before moving back to Glockenbachviertel for a queer party to remember. Well-established since the 1960s, Munich gay life is active all year round but peaks during Pride Festival and once again during Gay Oktoberfest, the raunchier version of the famed international beer festival. Learn more about what to do in the city with our Munich travel guide.

Taking a moment to catch our breath, we travel to the riverside town of Rothenburg, its buildings preserved in medieval splendour upon the teetering clifftops edging the water. Though somewhat busy in peak season thanks to its thriving tourist industry, Rothenburg at low season remains just as charming, allowing for strolls through narrow streets lined with timbered houses and towers of times gone by. The imperial town is said to be one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe and a must-see for those travelling the Romantic Road. Choose a heritage hotel overlooking the steep banks of the River Tauber, many of which have changed little since the 16^th century.

Other attractions to find surrounding the fairy-tale centre of Plönlein, include the 13th-century town hall, the Council Tavern clock and any number of old churches, with the Castle Gardens an additional top spot for views across town. Align your visit with Christmas for that festive feeling, when Rothenburg’s streets come alive with the glittering lights of one of the country’s best Christmas markets.

The second-largest city in Bavaria and the undeclared capital of the Holy Roman Empire is the city of Nürnberg (or Nuremberg), a fine place for architecture, history and dark Bavarian beer. Before you indulge in Nürnberg’s biggest export, however, take to the streets to explore the city’s unique and somewhat coloured past, its working-class centre once the stage for Nazi party rallies and the first boycotts of Jewish businesses. Though Nuremberg had a hand in enacting a number of fascist laws during WWII and was thereafter flattened by heavy bombing from allied forces, the city – along with the castle and the churches of the Aldstadt – was later painstakingly reconstructed in original stone, and has since redeemed itself as the site of the Nuremberg Trials, the war crimes tribunal.

From then to now, Nuremberg has evolved into a heritage city with a keen love of arts and culture, boasting vast royal castles and important landmarks all within its medieval city walls. In particular, you’ll want to visit the prized Imperial Castle, dating back to the 11^th century with features such as the Palas quarters chapel, Castle Gardens and the Sinwell Tower which offers panoramic views over the city. For the best revelries in Gay Nürnberg, visit during the two-week Old Town Festival or International Organ Week when folk music takes over the entire Old Town.

The Baroque city of Dresden is really quite an impressive site, based as it is on the banks of the Elbe River, strewn with grandiose spires, church cupolas and artful towers rebuilt to perfection following WWII. Take in the entire historical centre on foot, passing landmarks such as the Zwinger Palace, a 19th-century complex bearing various pavilions and courtyards amongst which you’ll find a number of museums and galleries detailing court life and hosting royal collections. More fine heritage architecture can be found in the frescoes and domes of the Lady Church and the guarded chambers of Grünes Gewölbe, though the more modern sections of the city are also worthy of a walkthrough, where local cuisine and leisurely river views take a front seat. Within the centre of gay Dresden, don’t miss the Theaterplatz, a buzzing market square showcasing Italian high Renaissance design side-by-side with the rather more classical styles of Semper Opera House.