Things to do in New Mexico

A pair of scenic roads to and through Taos, a city long regarded as a hub of Native American culture, constitute a microcosm of the rest of the state’s contradictions. Driving along the High Road to Taos, for example, exposes you to many of the shifts in scenery you see on longer routes elsewhere in New Mexico, in spite of its short length, a diversity the longer Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway north of the city amplifies. Taos itself embodies this schism as well, in particular, the millennium-old Taos Pueblo, by comparison, to which the Spanish colonial structures that dot Santa Fe’s city centre seem positively new.

How you organise your New Mexico road trip depends on where you come from. If you drive in from Texas, start in White Sands, then head north to Sante Fe and Taos via Cloudcroft and Ruidoso. From Colorado, begin in Taos, and then continue southward through Sante Fe with White Sands as your final destination. If you arrive in New Mexico via air, it will be in Albuquerque, whose connectedness to all of these destinations gives you the freedom to order your road trip as you please.

Albuquerque

Although Albuquerque is New Mexico’s largest city, it is not its most charming, outside of the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta. Even here, the short duration and once-a-year nature of the festival make experiencing it (certainly within the bounds of a road trip) impractical unless you plan precisely. Still, since Albuquerque is home to New Mexico’s main airport, it is conceivable you might spend at least one night here.

Albuquerque lacks luxury in most senses of the word, but there are some notable exceptions. Dating back to 1939, Hotel Andaluz spotlights Andalucian architecture and is without a doubt Albuquerque’s most posh property, with rooms, suites and penthouses that evoke Spain and Morocco as much as Mexico—new or old. On the other hand, while the name of the Executive King Room at Hotel Parq Central is perhaps misleading, its proximity to the airport and its charming, rooftop Apothecary Lounge, make it a fitting place for a one-night stay.

Santa Fe

The Inn of the Turquoise Bear isn’t as overtly gay as its cheeky name would suggest, although it is gay-owned and operated. The Inn is one of many Sante Fe accommodations that combine ancient adobe-style construction with decidedly modern service. A more opulent version of this exists at the nearby Inn of Five Graces, while El Farolito B&B Inn offers a homier experience, one notable for its close proximity to the Georgia O’Keefe Museum, itself a celebration of queerness.

Taos

Residents of the Taos Pueblo live modestly, but you needn’t give up any comfort whatsoever to spend a night—or two—here. From the outside, the Inn on La Loma Plaza seems to mirror the pueblo’s architecture, but inside—and particularly, inside the sprawling penthouse suite—an intoxicating combination of artistic embellishments, rustic touches such as an in-room fireplace and warm hospitality swirls makes you feel like you own the town. For an even more exclusive experience, visiting one of the vacation homes on offer at Casa Milagro, which, as its name suggests, provides a miraculous place to rest from your New Mexico road trip.

White Sands

No camping is allowed in White Sands (and obviously, no hotels exist here), so if you’re looking for a place to sleep that isn’t your back seat, you’ll need to drive farther afield. It’s difficult to find bonafide high-end properties anywhere in southern New Mexico, although the rustic authenticity—and forested setting—of the Apache Village Cabins in Ruidoso boast a certain five-star flavour, albeit one that has more to do with the skies in the dark sky above you at night than any on a ratings website.

Albuquerque

Another advantage of spending at least a night in Albuquerque is that it’s home to New Mexico’s most pronounced gay scene—in a way, it’s only one. Bars and clubs like Albuquerque Social Club and Sidewinders Ranch might seem provincial, but the welcomingness of local patrons makes a night out in the city one to remember.

Sante Fe

Smaller Santa Fe, on the other hand, has only one officially gay bar—or, I should say, had. The Blue Rooster closed in 2015, and it’s uncertain whether or when it will re-open. The good news is that many other Santa Fe establishments, such as the hipster-filled Matador and Vanessie Piano Bar, are gay-friendly.

In fact, whether you’re in Albuquerque, Sante Fe or elsewhere, it’s important to remember that although New Mexico might lack the gay infrastructure we take for granted in many large cities, the state is far more liberal than you might assume. It legalised gay marriage in 2013, two full years before the Supreme Court decision made it legal throughout the U.S., and votes Democratic in most presidential elections. We gays don’t make up a large percentage of the population here, but New Mexico loves us just the same.

The name “Turquoise Trail,” both when used to describe the highway between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, as well as its general ascription to New Mexico, is not coincidental: The state is one of the best places in the world to buy turquoise. Buying from artists who sell in the northern reaches of the Santa Fe Plaza ensures both that the turquoise jewellery you buy is authentic and made by hand but also, that you support the economies of the small pueblos to which all of the registered sellers here belong.

The variety of fine native art is even greater further north in Taos, whether you’re in search of jewellery, musical instruments or even ceremonial objects. Native Peace Pipes, for instance, sells a variety of handmade pipes for both smoking and sacrament, with ready-made items as well as special orders available.

If all else fails, follow your curiosity into the shops that line highways and byways throughout New Mexico. You won’t always make priceless discoveries or even find something worth buying, but you’re sure to emerge with a story to tell—and, yes, enchantment—to take home with you.

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