Gay Tallinn Tallinn City Guide

Curation by Yasmina Rodríguez, words by Laura Tucker

Recognisable by conical red rooftops that rise up from between medieval builds and verdant splashes of green, Tallinn is a veritable nugget of beauty within the post-Soviet bloc, shaped as much by its fertile coastal location as it is by Russian imperialism. Take scenic strolls through Tallinn’s preserved Old Town, marvelling at centuries-spanning architectural styles while immersing yourself in the city’s unique café culture. From palatial promenades to sandy beaches, Estonia’s affordable capital seemingly has it all. Even the food comes without a hint of pretension, combining Scandi styles with traditional rustic staples of Baltic Sea seafood, dark rye bread and the humble potato. Despite the young generation championing LGBT progress and the Baltic Pride being held on rotation in the region (set again for Tallinn in 2020), Estonia still struggles to shrug off communist-era homophobia. At night, discretion is advised and open displays of affection are not recommended. However, if you can brush this off, a crazy night out in Tallinn is a certainty, whether within its hipster cocktail bars, bohemian cafés or all-night dance events. Read on for Mr Hudson’s definitive Tallinn gay city guide…

The best hotels in Tallinn

Hotel Telegraaf is arguably Tallinn’s most prestigious address — a grand 1878 telegraph office steps from Town Hall Square, now a five-star Autograph Collection property and the only hotel in the Old Town with its own spa. The 83 rooms blend Art Deco flourishes with muted tones and French balcony windows overlooking rust-coloured rooftops, while the Telegraaf Spa — a serene circuit of pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, and Babor treatments — is the finest place in the city to decompress. The lobby bar sets an impeccable scene for a pre-dinner martini, and the Tchaikovsky restaurant, with its Franco-Russian tasting menu, merits an evening of its own.

For those who prize intimacy over scale, Schlössle Hotel transforms a cluster of 13th-century merchant houses into one of the Baltics’ most beguiling boutique retreats. Exposed stone walls, flickering fireplaces, and wood-beam ceilings create an atmosphere closer to a private residence than a hotel. Rooms are warmly furnished and equipped with in-room espresso machines and loaner iPads; the staff are notably gay-friendly and attentive in all the right ways. Both on-site restaurants and the sheltered courtyard carry the same convivial, old-world ease.

Commanding a prime position on Freedom Square, the Palace Hotel Tallinn — a member of Radisson Individuals — is a landmark of Estonian architecture dating from 1937. Its 79 rooms pay subtle homage to expressionist painter Konrad Mägi through warm, saturated tones, and many look out over the square’s handsome facades. The wellness floor — pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, Finnish sauna — offers serious respite, while the ‘Taste of Estonia’ breakfast is best savoured in-room as the city slowly stirs below.