Explore our favourite 10 places in gay Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka’s legal system still upholds some backwards views on gay rights, with anti-gay laws a surprising legacy of colonial times. Be that as it may, Sri Lanka could very well be considered a safe country for gay travellers as locals are – in general – very welcoming and curious of foreigners, regardless of orientation. As a traveller, you shouldn’t worry too much about booking hotels and the like, but as a precaution keep PDA to a minimum in public. On a happy note, we’re pleased to see a growing number of specifically gay hotels popping up in cities like Negombo (see no.10 for more information).

For the native LGBTQ community, however, the rules are a little different and stigma still very much exists in Sri Lankan society. The lack of Sri Lanka gay rights means it is possible for bigots and corrupt officials to discriminate with impunity and this is largely why openly gay locals are hard to come by. Meeting Sri Lankan gay friends and singles is made a little easier however with apps such as Lanka Love, Gay Romeo and, of course, Grindr.

With so much to see and do, Sri Lanka vacations should be long and lingering affairs. Take time to soak up the atmosphere on winding train journeys around forested mountains and leisurely overnight treks towards UNESCO-listed ruins. With a chilled agenda, moving through Hill Country will seem much more pleasant. You’ll notice the deceleration of the rail engines as you incline steadily into the mountains, with a similar experience had on slow-moving tuk-tuks and buses serving tea plantations in the region. If you’ve got places to be, however, renting a chauffeured car or even a seaplane may be worth the extra rupees.

While partying is possible, Sri Lanka offers the unique chance to purge the spirit in meditative levels of tranquillity. It’s possible to find a few luxury beach resorts with all the modern amenities, but largely you’ll find that family-run guesthouses are more numerous. Take this opportunity to befriend fellow guests and locals with a supreme knowledge of the region in homely comfort.

It’s not all slow-motion jaunts, however, because Sri Lanka also conceals much adrenalin-packed activity. Find white-water rafting in Kelaniya Ganga and hiking on of the peaks within Knuckles Mountain Range. Surfing on the east coast’s Arugam Bay is also a popular pastime, with end-of-day socialising in bars along the shore, particularly in peak season. Another way to see a side to the country that few others have is to book with a cycling tour operator for a bucket-list-ticking vacation.

If in doubt about where in the country to travel, you should note that the north is the less crowded half of the country, a territory once a Tamil Tiger stronghold and therefore off-limits to tourists for many years. Because of this, you’ll find that the north is somewhat undeveloped, lacking in the diverse hotels and resorts that are available in the south. Despite this slight downside, take a chance in travelling north to find deserted beaches, hidden temples and authentic port towns.

Sri Lankan culture is found all around but it’s the local cuisine that will undoubtedly pique your interest at various points on your trip. Much of the difficulty is in knowing where and what to eat so be sure to make a list of must-try dishes and tick them off as you go. We’d recommend rice crêpes named ‘hoppers’ for brunch, any colourful curry for lunch and the kottu rotty (vegetable flatbread) for dinner. While certain meals are only served at certain times and street food is thin on the ground, the ever-hungry should head back to their guesthouse for the most memorable meals prepared with love.

A sprawling city rooted in colonial legacy, Colombo continues to grow its ambitious plan for cosmopolitan Sri Lanka. Though in the past the city was stifled with the dust of heavy traffic, today Colombo has emerged from the fog with a range of shiny new hotels alongside modern eateries, galleries and shops centred around the ever-developing Galle Road. Though embracing newness, Colombo still retains its old-world charm. Mosey through Colombo to find grandiose colonial architecture in various states of restoration, as well as shady boulevards leading to open green spaces and cafés overlooking bustling street-side stalls, such as at Pettah Market in district 11. Each of the city’s 13 districts is distinct in its own way, with the Fort Area most representative of the city’s diverse tableau of Muslims, Christians, Hindus and Buddhists. Once walking becomes too much like hard work, flag a tuk-tuk to complete your tour of Colombo, finishing up at Galle Face Green to watch children fly kites in the peachy light of sunset.

Gay Colombo has no official queer hangouts but nevertheless, the LGBTQ community is certainly active here. Find out about upcoming events through gay dating apps and social media, meeting at gay-friendly spaces such as the Lazaani Hotel. Those looking for a quiet rendezvous should consider the bars and restaurants owned by large chain hotels, as these are places generally more comfortable with same-sex flirtations. Other places to check out include the upmarket jazz clubs, rooftop bars and world-class restaurants studding the skyline.

A one-hour drive from Galle along the gorgeous coastline lies the romantic beach town of Mirissa Sri Lanka, which any tuk-tuk or taxi driver will oblige to take you. From here you can indulge in ultimate relaxation, taking to the beaches along the beautiful south-west coastline between Bentota and Tangalle. As well as taking advantage of the peaceful surfing spots in the area, you should consider Mirissa for its diving tours and whale and dolphin watching safaris. Find ticket vendors along the edge of the beaches or book with ease through your hotel. Follow up your day of marine adventure with delectable seafood treats in candlelight along the beachfront.

Next, we move upwards into the luscious mountains at the heart of Sri Lanka’s central tea plantation region, to the little village of Ella. A laid-back escape from the stress of the big cities, Ella Sri Lanka is the place to come for outdoor adventure and a chilled vibe, just two hours inland from Yala National Park. Rural in the best sense of the word, Ella retains its charming small-town feel while also providing a convenient base for further ventures into the mountainous countryside. Be sure to scout out the area’s beauty spots along with a series of hiking trails that begin in the centre. Little Adam’s Peak goes from the entrance to 98 Acres Resort, rewarding trekkers with a shrine to Buddha at the peak and sheer hill-edge views along the way. Slightly more challenging is the hike up to Ella Rock, a 3-4 hour trek from the village train station. Allow plenty of daylight to complete this trek, marvelling at the epic scenery and tea plantation views as you climb.

Other activities to do while in Ella include a lofty walk along the iconic Nine Arch Bridge, towards the dense jungles beyond, or, of course, a proper visit to a tea plantation where you can learn about the history and culture of the local tea culture, greeting the colourfully dressed pickers who work tirelessly amid endless rows of tea. When set to leave Ella, consider departing in style aboard the scenic train which stops at countless other tiny towns within Hill Country, ending at Kandy, the next destination on our list.

The train ride to Kandy from Ella (or vice-versa) is said to be one of the most beautiful journeys to undertake in Sri Lanka, so it would be mad not to mention both towns. The train takes eight hours to go the entire way but there is also the option of hopping on and off as you please to stop at smaller towns, such as Nuwara Eliya, to grab a bite to eat and appreciate authentic local lifestyles. If going non-stop to Kandy, book your train ticket in advance to avoid disappointment. Despite Kandy being Sri Lanka’s second city, the misty intrigue of the mountain region remains in full force, giving this urban space an otherworldly feel.

The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is the crowning attraction in Kandy and one of Sri Lanka’s most prized Buddhist relics – from the mouth Buddha himself! The cynical among you who don’t succumb to the mystery of the temple may instead opt to visit the Royal Botanical Garden or Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage which lie slightly further afield by car. Back in Kandy, learn of the importance of this ancient ‘City of Kings’, the last bastion of independent Ceylon before the nation relinquished power to Portuguese and Dutch colonisers in the 16^th and 17^th century.

Nevertheless, Kandy was able to preserve native culture and customs better than other regions, resulting in unique works of art and architecture which may not have survived elsewhere. With the arrival of British colonisers in the 19^th century, Kandy underwent evermore change and now offers a blend of ancient sites, stately gardens and colonial builds, all set to the distinctly Sri Lankan backdrop of emerald hills, lakes and bushels of tea. Spend some days getting lost in the culture of Kandy, staying in the lively downtown area for close access to attractions and the best restaurants, or, opting for more peaceful lodgings on the banks of Kandy Lake or within the Anniewatta area.

Ancient capital of Sri Lanka for a total of three centuries, Polonnaruwa is the ultimate destination for history and culture buffs. Positively crammed with temples and ruins in vibrant green jungle surroundings, Polonnaruwa is a UNESCO World Heritage Site once home to Sinhalese royalty, still alive with fables told of the lost kingdom. As well as myriad temples, the city offers stupas, palaces, Buddha statues and more, all centred on the age-old Quadrangle where the Dalada Maluwa (or ‘Terrace of the Tooth Relic’) is ceremoniously set. Perhaps the most ornate building in Sri Lanka, the central shrine here is carved with elaborate figures and gemstones, each detail of sacred meaning. After marvelling at the workmanship in the centre, move outwards to the Lankatilaka and Gal Vihara, each built with their own celestial significance and equally as mesmerising.

As well as buying your tickets at the Polonnaruwa Museum, be sure to head inside to better understand the history of the archaeology above. After several hours of history, calm your mind with a trip out to Minneriya and Kaudulla national parks. While impressive all year round, these parks are best during dry season when herds of elephants gather to drink. At Minneriya, don’t miss the so-called ‘gathering’, a famed event promising elephant sightings. Those who could never tire of the region’s ancient ruins may also like to explore the other two Ancient Cities of Sri Lanka, Sigiriya and Anuradhapura, the latter just 3 hours’ drive from Polonnaruwa.