The ultimate Peru itinerary - from Lima to Machu Picchu

There’s little point hiding the fact that Peru remains socially conservative. It is yet to follow the lead of other South American countries in legalising same-sex unions, and open displays of affection are rare. Rainbow flags fly, but as the banner of Cusco and the Inca Empire rather than in solidarity with LGBT+ populations. Gay clubs do exist, particularly in and around the capital Lima, though homosexuality is largely seen as something foreigners ‘do’, to the detriment of Peruvians identifying as LGBT+. Fingers crossed the situation changes soon.

Planning a trip to Peru means keeping an eye on the climate. The coastal and hill regions (including Machu Picchu) are generally cooler. Like rainforests throughout the world, the Amazon is warmer, stickier, and of course wetter than other regions.

There are no de facto no-go months, with the southern hemisphere winter months of May to September the driest and therefore the best for Peru vacations aiming to include the famed Inca Trail Machu Picchu hike. The skies are clear, but it’s also peak season, so book early. The summer months of December to March are warmer but wetter, while spring and autumn have more unpredictable weather conditions.

One of South America’s largest cities, the Peruvian capital judders to a halt on crumbling Pacific-facing cliffs. It’s a city that is often overlooked with those looking to get from the international airport in Lima to Machu Picchu as quickly as possible, but it’s also a city of surprises should you give it a chance.

Here it’s possible to stumble upon ancient pre-colonial temples amid the traffic and high-rises, and the UNESCO recognised Plaza de Armas beside gallery-worthy works of street art. The museums also are second to none, but it’s the city’s food scene, its ceviche stands and restaurants serving the likes of lomo saltado (stir-fried beef) that will linger on your tongue and in your memory. So check out our Lima City Guide, and discover what everyone else is missing!

A massive 21 hours east of Lima by road, flights are the best option for reaching Cusco and provide superb vistas across the lofty peaks of the Andes from the left-hand side of the plane. The city’s altitude of 11,000 feet above sea level means you should take your first hours easy by hiring a car and driver (via your hotel) and taking the short journey to Pisac. Here Incan ruins sit on the hillside above town and a thriving market takes place on Sundays. Next, direct your driver to the ruins of Sacsayhuamán – they’re bound to know them and their beautifully constructed walls of perfectly-fitting stones, some weighing several tonnes.

Join the queue for the bus from Cusco to Machu Picchu safe in the knowledge you did the mileage on foot yesterday. It’s an early start, with buses leaving before dawn, but well worth making the effort to capture the sunrise over the ruins, which also gives you plenty of time to explore the entire citadel.

Another short flight will get you from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado, a gateway to the Amazon. Though not widely known, it’s from the snowmelt in Peru’s high Andes that the mighty Amazon River starts its course across the continent, and a boat trip along even the smallest portion of the world’s second longest river is an absolute must. Then delve into the rainforest that bears the river’s name, believed to be its most diverse region, where human cultures have lived harmoniously with the native flora and fauna since the dawn of time.